The Digital Multilogue on Fashion Education 2020 (September 25)

The industry is made up of many different models, approaches, people and practices; the dominant practices, however, are based on a broken model – of taking from nature without recognizing the detrimental impacts of its practices – from biodiversity loss, to water scarcity, pollution, carbon emissions and much more. The model of overstimulation of the market, overproduction and low price, is also based on an industry model where modern-day slavery is rife. This is not socially, morally, environmentally or culturally sustainable. It is not economically sustainable for long – due to the diminishing resources, increasing climate emergency and suffocation felt by many people in the west. There is no fashion business on a dead planet.

However, as there is still no social stigma for these companies, insufficient legislation and a pervasive consumer culture – the short term continuation of this model continues – time is short for change, but change will and must come.

Platforms such as the multilogue are vital in this change. At CSF, we are also working on a set of resources for all tutors, which will be open-sourced and available to all tutors around the world from next February. Please check CSF website for details of Fashion SEEDS.

Teach critical thinking, deep ecology, self reflexive practices and engage in participatory learning with a range of peers, tutors and people across disciplines and locations.

Ai Wei Wei in the Guardian 22nd March 2020 https://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2020/mar/22/ai-weiwei-an-artist-must-be-an-activist

The current paradigm of ‘the modern project’ assumes that newness is always good, that growth = success and that the application of new ideas into commercial practice is progress. The technocentric approach to sustainability assumes that we can ‘fix’ issues of sustainability through continuing the approach that got us into this mess. Whilst there are many fantastic innovations that are important – unless we shift our thinking about our intentions – to put earth and equity first, we will not succeed in doing more than slightly putting on the brakes, but still going over the edge of 1.5 degrees temperature rise – and more.

To consider that, we would need to address the root of the racial construct, for which its caste system depends upon color (amongst other phenotypic factors) to organize and evaluate human beings. Putting this into practice, this would require a consistent and sustained effort of opposing the presumed values of certain colors by positioning the person in a place of power. In terms of fashion, this visual message would include more prevalent and prominent representation in fashion images.

In terms of styling and photography, I would add Ib Kamara, Tyler Mitchell, Renell Medrano. Top brands: I like what Telfar is doing, which is not-so-subtly subversive, and transforming our notions of capital and value. There are countless brands out right now - too many to think of. Telfar has had a lasting impact and is doing something interesting without making a performative “radical” statement.

I hope so. We are only a few months away from “the black square” posted in unison on Instagram as a symbol of concern and suggested solidarity, but what this moment calls for is steps towards structural change in terms of practice and ideology. This is a “long-game” effort, which poses an uncomfortable challenge to the fashion industry, as it runs on a rapid cycle with little time or patience for introspection. The solutions for this will involve implementing an education and training program to help re-assess the value-system within, and this cannot be resolved in the form of a brief workshop or meeting. In addition, the everyday consumer and social media user is wise enough to not buy into a surface-level fashion campaign that models “diversity.” This passive strategy is what some call “the illusion of inclusion,” which presents the imagery of diverse representation to suggest the values and awareness of a brand. In effect, it doubles down on its ability to connect to those impacted by the implications of race, as it labors and capitalizes on the racialized body to manage the impression of a powerful brand. At the time of this response, many brands are seeking to implement Diversity & Inclusion programs as well as education programs and committing to long-term sponsorships to underserved communities to address this issue–supporting their bottom line in some regards.

As the concept of “inclusivity” expands throughout the field and we consider the fullest definition of the term, I anticipate that we will make a concerted effort to integrate scholarship and design thinking amongst non-English languages into some of our most critical resources and learning spaces. How would that look? I am already thinking about how we can integrate non-English scholarship and resources into The Fashion and Race Database in the next year.

It is a wise consideration that many from the industry (and even our field) may not embrace–let alone visit–the database. It is my hope that those amongst us who appreciate the database will take what they need from it and share what they have learned with their colleagues, students and associates who may hold more critical or stubborn views.

My adoption and use of the term “decentralize” was more of a personal and professional preference. To decentralize means to transfer the power, focus or authority of one aspect (thing, person, phenomenon) to another–or at the very least, obfuscate the defined parameters of a centralized way of thinking and understanding. The term “decolonize” has been taken up in popular culture and situated in our collective consciousness much in the same way that “cultural appropriation” has for the past ten years, and I want to maintain the integrity of its definition and progress by sharing the dedicated work of scholars on the database.